e-FOMERCIALS            back

What is an e-Fomercial?
Everybody sells something, don't they ? So I came up with the idea that
db members may post an advertisement - only - if accompanied by an educational, informational article for the entire list, and it must be approved by and posted to the list by Ruby.

            Many thanks to these contributors !                                  

Table of Contents

SBGA by Betty Lewis

Why eat algae?
Super Blue Green Algae (SBGA) provides more vitamins, minerals, enzymes, amino acids & chlorophyll per gram than
any other food source on Earth and all in a raw organic form! 

What is Super Blue Green Algae?
SBGA is a microalgae of the species Aphanizomenonflos-aquae. It grows wild in Upper Klamath Lake, Oregon, a
pristine volcanic lake in the Cascade Mountains. It is the bottom of the food chain, the foundation food for all life on earth. 

How is SBGA different from other algae or green foods?
Chlorella & Spirulina are artificially cultivated while SBGA is wild-crafted. Algae is lower on the food chain than other green foods and contains 2-3 times the chlorophyll of alfalfa. SBGA has a balanced amino acid profile which alfalfa, wheat grass and barley grass do not have.

Why eat from the bottom of the food chain?
Toxins become more concentrated the higher up on
the food chain we go. Eating at the bottom of the food chain allows us to minimize ingesting toxins in our food.

What are some benefits observed in Danes from eating SBGA?
* feelings of increased energy & vitality
*decrease of stress & anxiety
*improved learning ability--easier trainability
*improved hair coats, hoof quality & hoof growth
*improved skin quality
*better flexibility
*relief from symptoms of allergy, poor digestion, lethargy
*improved mood & attitude
*better regulation of weight & appetite
*heightened healing & accelerated recovery time.

Which Cell Tech products should I use?
The animal food is Alpha Sun. Also recommended are
Omega Sun, digestive enzymes & the probiotics
acidophilus & bifidus. Other products such as Sprouts & Algae
or Co Q 10 as needed for specific reasons. The
Smoothies have
been used successfully for recovering debilitated animals. 

How much should I feed my animals?
Every animal will have individual needs, but the rule of thumbis 1 Alpha capsule (1/6 teaspoon) per pound of food, or 1/3 tsp
animal food powder. Adjust up or down as needed.

How do I get SBGA?
You may obtain the Cell Tech products in two ways-retail from me or, more economically, wholesale by becoming
a wholesale member yourself.

Price $ 75.00 + S/H for xx ounces, which will feed a Dane for ONE YEAR at 1/2 teaspoon a day.

Order directly by calling 800-487-1500 - give them my number 104-36-9129 or see below for directions on becoming a wholesale member. 

How do I become a Cell Tech Wholesale member?
Call Cell Tech at 1-800-800-1300 and tell them you want
to become a member. They will ask your sponsor's ID number which is 104-36-9129. You will then be given your own account. The cost of a membership/distributorship is $35 and the only requirement to maintain it is to buy $50 worth of product every 6 months. Should you decide you want to receive a commission on your purchases, you must buy $50 worth each month. 

How do I learn more about SBGA?
Betty Lewis at 603-673-3263
eMail ... pawsreflect@earthlink.net
Visit Cell Tech (www.celltech.com)

To buy SBGA please contact me.

Betty Lewis, RVT, Dr.AN/ Holistic Animal Consultation & Animal Communication
Phone: 603-673-DANE
eMail: pawsreflect@earthlink.net
Web: http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/index.html

I also sell NuSkin, Nature Spring Water Purifiers, Pet-Lyte, Natural Efx, Fastrack, 
Magnetic Devices, Microhydrin, Juice+ and Golden Treat.

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)

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SPRING SHED by Betty Lewis

     In most of the Northern Hemisphere, the task of grooming a Great Dane has been pretty minimal and routine. I'll cover the basics in another "Tip" column. Today, I'd like to focus on dealing with the change in coat that Spring
precipitates. The Danes I have owned shed about 2 and a half times a year.
There is a "mini-shed" in January
which lasts about a
week. Only a small amount of hair comes out at this time. The Fall shed is also fairly
minimal. And then there's the Big Winter
Shed Out which occurs in the Spring. "Spring" obviously varies
depending on your location.
Here in New Hampshire, it can be as early as late April or as late as June. The
amount of hair which comes out depends on the severity of the winter,
how much time the dog spent outside
during the coldest weather, the dog's ability to grow hair (metabolism/nutrition/genes), type of coat
and other
individual differences.
Tassel, a brindle bitch of mine *loved* to be outside. Consequently, she spent more time
out in the snow than other Danes of mine. When the
Big Shed came, *wow*, I took a couple of *cups* of hair out of her every day for *6 weeks* before we had it all out!! That's the worst I've encountered...usually it's 3 weeks to a

Equipment I've found most effective:
rubber horse curry
Shed 'n Blade (or hacksaw blade)
Terrier stripping knife.
Hound glove
Vacuum cleaner (not only to clean up, but, if your dog likes it,
to vacuum the hair right out of the dog.)

     If you do this job outside, you can leave the hair for the birds to line their nest with.
The rubber horse curry is the basic tool. The dog gets a nice massage
while you use it and most dogs enjoy it. I
go in the direction of growth as
well as in the reverse...whatever works. You have to be careful going over bony
protuberances. Use common sense. If the dog begins to move away
from you when you do it when they were
content before, consider that you're
beginning to hurt. If you rub your finger lightly over the back of your hand long
enough, you'll find it starts to hurt even though you're not
applying pressure. Use common sense to keep the brushing process pleasant.

     I use the Shed n' Blade and the stripping knife interchangeably. It depends on which works best and this varies from dog to dog and location on the dog. I find I'm more likely to use it on the neck, hips and tail.
even if you're paying attention, it's not difficult to get carried away and cause bleeding. These are valuable tools when used correctly, but can be damaging if you're not paying attention. 
     The Hound Glove is for "after" each session. It takes the loose hair off the top of the coat and imparts a nice
sheen. You can also use it for a
quick touch up at shows.  
All the products are available from Cherrybrook. 800- 524-0820

To buy any of the products listed BELOW please contact me.

Betty Lewis, RVT, Dr.AN/ Holistic Animal Consultation & Animal Communication
Phone: 603-673-DANE
eMail: pawsreflect@earthlink.net
Web: http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/index.html

I also sell NuSkin, Nature Spring Water Purifiers, Pet-Lyte, Natural Efx, Fastrack, 
Magnetic Devices, Microhydrin, Juice+ and Golden Treat.

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)                       

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MATOL by Sandra Brigola 

Matol/Km is a 75 year old botanical formula that provides a concentrated *Food for the Blood*, (potassium
mineral supplement) that works at the cellular level.
Dr. Karl Jurak grew up in the mountains of Austria where he
perfected this herbal formula, giving it away to friends and relatives
who were ill or just wanted a general tonic for health. In 1984 Dr. Jurak formed the Matol Botanical Company with its headquarters in Montreal, Canada. I like the company's mission which is to *Impact World Health* and their Give and Receive policy.

Matol/Km is a synergistic blend of herbs designed to work with your bodies system to enhance your well being, along with your pets. It is a blend of 13 organically grown herbs in a liquid formula. 

The herbs in this formula are:
rich in Vit. B12, E & calcium, good for colds, asthma & bronchitis
rich in the amino acid Tryptophane; aids in digestion and has anti-inflammatory properties
Celery seed:
contains Vit. A, B, C. & iron. Aids in digestion, is a
diuretic, decreases blood pressure, tonic for liver & spleen.
German Chamomile:
high in calcium, magnesium iron & other trace
minerals, treats liver, kidney & bladder, relief for indigestion & stress.
high in potassium. Used for colds & bronchitis.
Aids in liver, kidney & blood pressure. Contains choline, A&B complex vitamins & lecithin.
Rich in B complex nutrients, vitamin F. aids in digestion, cleanses sores, increases appetite, aid for liver disease & has anti-inflammatory properties.
helps a variety of ailments, including tumors, worms,
jaundice, bronchitis and treats fevers and colds.
relieves arthritic conditions, Contains Vit. E & B complex.
Saw Palmetto:
Helps maintain vigor for aging, soothes & quiets the mind.
treats coughs, digestive problems, helps relive sore muscles
& respiratory inflammation. Contains B complex, Vitamin C, D & trace minerals.
Passion Flower:
used as a muscle relaxant. Has inflammatory properties, rich in magnesium.
relieves symptoms of asthma/heaves. Rich in magnesium
and other trace minerals.
maintains energy and enhances muscle growth.
Reduces urinary conditions. Rich in Vit. C, 
B complex (especially B6), calcium, iron and other trace minerals.

Matol/Km : Increases the oxygen level in the blood as well as purification and detoxification.

Large breeds
1-2tsp twice a day increasing to 1 tbsp. twice daily 
Human dose: 2 tbsp. morning and evening

Personal Testimonial
My daughter has had great results with horses as well, and race horses
have done extremely well on this 
product. It has helped with arthritic dogs
immensely. On a personal level, the psoriasis on my feet cleared up,
and my blood
pressure been reduced as well. All of my animals take this on a daily basis, including my birds who
get a couple of drops in their water.
Matol Corporation also sells digestive enzymes with herbs, gingko biloba,
beta carotene with C& E, along with their product
Preva PB which is breast and prostrate cancer preventative,
body shaper products and a new anti virus product which is just
being introduced to the market.

The cost of Matol is $38.50 for a 950ml. Bottle.  
Like all MLM companies it is cheaper to become a distributor
which gives you 25%to 40% off the product.

MATOL'S philosophy is *Give & Receive*

Offer # 1.
A free 8oz. bottle of the Matol product. This offer is good anytime.

Offer # 2.
They are offering 2 free Preva bars (for breast & prostrate cancer) plus a 25% discount, good for any product. 
This offer is good until the end of the month.

The company will mail out this out to anyone.

If you are interested in trying the Matol product give us a call at: 

1-888-MATOL-PB. Give them My MB # : S-20965017     Their web site is: http://www.matol.com

Sandra Brigola
VON Hapsburg Danes
Editor of Canine Health Naturally Newsletter

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)                       

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GROOMING - Ears - Toenails - Teeth by Betty Lewis

Grooming a Great Dane is an easy task, so easy, in fact, that many people seem not to do it at all. It's true that
it only takes
about 10 minutes per dog, per week, but it's an important 10 minutes. I encourage you all to make it
a weekly habit. I have chosen Thursday as Grooming Day. Since some show
weekends start on Friday and I
don't like to change my schedule, Thursday has been sensible. It works for me.
     I groom all the dogs in the house, no matter what their age...from 2 weeks to 12 years. The only dogs who
escaped were those with
under one week old puppies and the very sick. The main areas I focus on are ears,
toenails and teeth. In addition, I run my hands over all parts of each dog to make sure there are no lumps, 
bumps, cuts, scratches or other things that I should know about.

     If you do this faithfully, there won't be any surprises. If you need to bring something to the 
     attention of a health care professional, you will know the history of its development.


cleaning solution ( 50/50 alcohol and white vinegar )
cotton balls
hemostat-for getting into those hard-to-reach places

Saturate the cotton ball, squeeze into ear as you do the "first
pass". Grasp cotton ball with hemostat and wipe.
Use a second cotton
ball to dry and get out anything remaining. The dog will generally shake its head to get the excess liquid out.

This cleaning solution is designed specifically to keep the pH in the ear acidic and to dry out the ear. A moist ear
encourages bacterial growth.
This solution is also called Swimmer's Ear Solution and is good for children or dogs
after swimming.

Resco Jumbo Clippers or Dremel Moto Tool (Grinder)

Before you get to the stage where you use a grinder with a sanding drum to groom adult nails, [or if you never do!] we've found that a RESCO guillotine clipper is the weapon of choice. They're usually less than $10 in hardware & pet supply stores.

First critical step is to hold it correctly ! This tool is often used by vets to de-claw cats, and they often get in the habit of holding it upside-down, so watching your vet may not be helpful! There's a guard through which the nail goes, and a blade which slides up to shave the nail. Hold the clipper so the blade is toward you, not on the far side of the guard. Seems backward at first, but that's the right way.

The RESCO allows you to shave off tiny slices of nail. You'll find that even with white nails [where you THINK you can see where the 'quick' is], the best technique is to look at the END of the nail, where you've just cut. At first, it is hard tissue-- and 'nail-like.' As you shave it down, you'll find a little 'bulls-eye' will appear. When you've shaved back far enough to expose the end of the quick [usually black or gray on black nails; may be red, pink or grey on white nails].
That's as far as you can go...for that session, on that nail.

If you have nails that are too long from under-attention, shave DAILY to keep the end of the quick exposed, and it will begin to retreat.

Should you whack one too deep [or should Rover jump, and 'help' you get too far into his nail!], this isn't life-threatening, although some dogs would like you to think so!
We carry household cinnamon in the tattoo tack. It's finely ground, and mildly
caustic, and easily packs into a bleeding nail and stops it. Or send him outside, and the dirt will pack it! Or use Quik Stop, or styptic, or talcum powder.  For a REAL bleeder, ice cubes will stop it in pretty short order.

Nails should be done weekly. With a puppy, it's easier to handle them, and they get used to the routine.

An alternative method is to use a nail grinder. A popular brand is Dremel. When you use the Dremel Moto Tool, use the rubber drum attachment with the #408 coarse sandpaper drum on it. Remember to tap, tap, tap the nail.

Don't hold the grinder on it or it will get too hot and the dog will have a valid objection. Done correctly, this method is quick, painless and leaves smooth edges.

old human toothbrush

dentifrice: Tom's of Maine toothpaste works ok OR
water with a few drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE)
raw meaty bones

A raw diet containing raw bones is the best way to keep the teeth clean.
This way, you never have to worry about cleaning them at all.

Assuming that this isn't the way you've chosen, kibble, canned and other foods will cause deposits and staining on the teeth. If you don't allow it to harden, ie:, you catch it as soon as it's deposited, brushing it away is
an easy matter. For that reason, I suggest brushing teeth from the earliest
age you can. The puppy teeth fall out, so you can practice on those teeth. The puppy will get used to the attention and you'll have fresh, white teeth
and a cooperative puppy to deal with at 6 months.

If you have an older dog who already has a brown, hard buildup, it will, have to be scraped. This can be done on a cooperative dog with proper dental scaling tools, but it is beyond the scope of this article. I suggest you get the teeth cleaned professionally by your veterinarian and then keep them clean by brushing weekly.

I've tried a lot of dentifrices over the years and I am not really happy with any of them. The ones I've suggested above work better than most. The best choice is to keep the teeth clean naturally.

Betty Lewis, RVT, Dr.AN/ Holistic Animal Consultation & Animal Communication
Phone: 603-673-DANE
eMail: pawsreflect@earthlink.net
Web: http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/index.html

I also sell NuSkin, Nature Spring Water Purifiers, Pet-Lyte, Natural Efx, Fastrack, 
Magnetic Devices, Microhydrin, Juice+ and Golden Treat.

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)                       

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WATER by Betty Lewis 

Water is the number one nutrient, after oxygen, required by our bodies. Bodies are reported to be about 75% water. Therefore, it is important to provide the best quality. Quality water used to be something we could take for granted, but no more! Municipal sources are often polluted, and then sanitized by using the toxic chemical chlorine.

People say to me, "but I have well water!" as though not knowing the source of our water somehow makes it better!  Are you certain that underground aquifer is pristine? Are you downhill from your neighbor's septic system?
The only thing better about well water is that no chlorine or fluoride has been added. Beyond that, we don't really know what's in it and the standard water analysis which proclaims our water "safe" doesn't begin to test of the number of possible contaminants. 

The only way we can be sure our water is pure is by purifying it ourselves. Water purifiers come in a variety of categories from small countertop models to whole house units. My information says that the best kind is a reverse osmosis unit. Don't be fooled into thinking that a carbon filter on the faucet is enough. Bottled water from the grocery store may be an expedient compromise in the short-term, either during the transition to a home purifier or while traveling, but this industry is little regulated and you could be drinking someone else's tap water!

Incidentally, water is also known as the universal solvent, which means that it has the ability to dissolve materials and incorporate them into itself. 

That plastic water dish you let water sit in all day is a toxic waste dump!

Use only stainless steel or glass for your animal's food and water dishes please!

Water quality is such a critical issue when looking at overall health and we have been lulled for so many years to believe in the safety of our water supply. We find it easy to just ignore this part, believing that it doesn't pertain to us. For your own health and that of your animals, do something about your water quality today.

You can check with a local water treatment company like Culligan and inquire about a whole house reverse osmosis unit. This is best since the water you bathe in and make ice cubes from, etc will also be pure. However, it is very expensive. When I checked with my local Culligan Man, an under the sink unit was $700-800. A whole house unit is an investment!

What we are using is the Nature's Spring from Nature's Sunshine.

Here are some quotes from their brochure: 
"The consensus among water experts is that a point-of-use water treatment system is the most economical way to improve the quality of your water for drinking and cooking." 

"Nature's Spring is a "state-of-the-art: point-of-use drinking water system designed to protect your family and your quality of life."

"The Nature's Spring unit uses a three stage treatment process to remove harmful contaminants in your water." Then it goes into considerable detail about each filter stage.

Removes these contaminants: unpleasant tastes & odors, nitrates, sodium, heavy metals, flouride, chlorine, asbestos, trihalomethanes (TMS), pesticides, fertilizers.

Has these characteristics:
Improves the pH of the water, adds to the water's oxygen balance, leaves in trace minerals (needed by the body), self-cleans the unit of contaminants, conserves energy (it's not electric).

This company is one that will not sell directly to the consumer.
If you want this one, I have to order it for you. 

Nature's Spring I-CA (for chlorinated water) #1730-8 $ 265 (+S&H)
Nature's Spring I-PA (non-chlorinated source) #1915-1 $ 295 (+S&H)

To buy a Nature Spring please contact me.

Betty Lewis, RVT, Dr.AN/ Holistic Animal Consultation & Animal Communication
Phone: 603-673-DANE
eMail: pawsreflect@earthlink.net
Web: http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/index.html

I also sell NuSkin, Nature Spring Water Purifiers, Pet-Lyte, Natural Efx, Fastrack, 
Magnetic Devices, Microhydrin, Juice+ and Golden Treat.

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)                       

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My name is Jeanette and my kennel is Vali Hi Great Danes and we live in Myrtle Beach, SC USA. My husband is Jim, and we have a daughter Lori and son Jim who work with me in our business, NATURE'S FARMACY.

I've been involved in the breeding and showing, laughter, tears, joy and heartache of the Great Dane breed for 30 years. Right now we have 9 Danes, 1 Boston Terrier, and one Heinz 57 that we rescued from a ditch alongside the road where she had taken up residence in a culvert. Our youngest dogs are 12 months and our oldest are 7+ years.

I am the owner of the Nature's Farmacy, Inc. company and if you show dogs, you probably have seen our booth (the big white trailer with the store inside) at shows. 
We are the people who first introduced Fastrack to the dog fancy about 10 years ago. Our business is primarily natural dog nutrition, stress management and conditioning in show dogs, finding solutions to the skin and coat troubles in dogs, and a big part of our efforts has been to find ways to prevent bloat / gdv and to manage dogs nutritionally post-bloat / gdv . There are a lot of people trying to sell Fastrack online and most of them have
no clue of what the product really does. The Fastrack people and I just about duked it out the other day because they printed the new "dog" product brochures and tell people "do not freeze" Fastrack. To any of you who have seen that literature and have been freezing your Fastrack for longer storage, THEY ARE WRONG!!!!

Continue to store your product frozen (the bacteria are freeze-dried anyway, duuhhhh – I couldn't believe they printed that info) and keep a smaller container at room temp to be used daily. The damage that can occur with bacteria can happen when the temperature fluctuates quickly and drastically (such as keeping the jar in the fridge or freezer and taking a scoop out and directly putting it in a warm meal or in warm water. You could do it that way, but you should let the scoop warm up to room temp (70-80 degrees) and then add it to the food.

Refrigeration was recommended. I disagree because the humidity changes with the temp changes when the fridge door is swinging all the time in the average household .Simpler and more correct to keep the supply frozen and take out enough for a couple weeks and store it in the cabinet. Room temp is fine. Don't let it sit in the sun or heat up inside your car or van to high temps. Keep it cooled in summer at shows - stick in the dog's cooler.
We have spent many years working with breeders of every breed and our approach to care is holistic and our products reflect that. In the issue of nutrition, you will always hear us say to feed MEAT. We have designed diets to be nutritionally sound that any person can use. We absolutely believe and have had extensive experience in helping people learn how to feed dogs natural diets and meat, including proper supplementation. Our views are based on many years of hands-on experience with actual cases, not just by reading research.

We are happy to share what we can with anyone we can help. We are grateful to receive input from anyone who has something to share that could help someone and we will pass it on.

Our products include herbs, homeopathic remedies, flea/parasite products, the best kennel squeegees and mops on the planet, many unique things too numerous to list here, and always safe, natural and non-toxic.
I hope what we've learned can help people on the list.

We also have about 10 years of alternative pain management experience in both people and animals. Many natural methods and products are available.

Please feel free to call the 800 number below for a complete and free catalog.

Nature's Farmacy
800-733-4981 or 770-516-4490
Jeanette or Lori
Feel free to email any questions to:

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)                       

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Holistic Medicine encompasses some of the oldest forms of medicine in the world i.e. herbs; homeopathy; glandulars; acupuncture etc. These forms of medicine are practiced predominately worldwide and exceed the use of conventional or western medicine as we know it here in North America. Science is now starting to catch up and prove the validity of many so called folk remedies.

The goal is to help the body truly heal itself.

Holistic therapies give us the option of choosing alternatives that can be given to help the body to heal the underlying condition instead of masking the symptoms as in most conventional drug therapy. Of course veterinary advice should always be sought in the case of serious illness and injury. There are many such situations where holistic therapies have proven more effective, especially in cases where conventional treatments offer nothing or no hope. Breeders in particular face a number of challenges that the average pet owner is unlikely to encounter. Here are a few more examples.

Many breeding and fertility problems can be solved with the use of natural remedies.
Owners of stud dogs that suffer from chronic or acute prostate problems are usually advised to have the dog neutered. Many valuable breeding lines have been lost unnecessarily.

To help the prostate we have found that using two homeopathic remedies called Inflammation and Prostate (BHI) combined with a glandular nutritional supplement called Prostate Complex gives excellent results. The Prostate Complex also contains Saw Palmetto, which is well studied in helping prostate health. With these remedies urination and sperm production often returns to normal. Natural treatment of dogs with low or no sperm counts has also shown great results. (Of course an underlying condition of thyroid disorder or infection should be properly ruled out). In many instances there is no specific diagnosis given to these dogs (which can include even the very young). To help we have used a glandular called Symplex M which gives nutritional support to the male reproductive system. Also two amino acids are given called L’Arginine and L’Carnitine (again both are well studied and shown to increase sperm production).

A good multiple vitamin is also given called Spectra. This is a very high quality vitamin that is sold through physicians. (My whole family takes this routinely and it is amazing the difference in our energy and overall well being.) The dog vitamins on the market are simply not potent enough to have any therapeutic value, even for everyday health. These supplements can also be used to enhance sperm production prior to collections for freezing or artificial inseminations.

Bitches that have irregular cycles or have difficulty in conceiving can be greatly helped by giving a glandular called Symplex F and a homeopathic called Hormeel. These help the body regulate natural hormonal imbalances. For bitches whose seasons are overdue, two homeopathics would be used with the Symplex F. One is called Sepia and the other Pituitary. This combination will not bring bitches falsely into season but again helps to regulate their cycle and they come into a good breedable season relatively quickly. Here again use of the Spectra vitamin is important, as it will provide the extra nutrients such as properly balanced Folic Acid, amino acids, etc.

When breeding, to ensure a good gestation and easy labor, breeders have been relying on a homeopathic remedy called Pregnancy formula and an herbal mixture called NR Birth Aid. The NR product is imported from
England and contains a proportionate blend of well-known female herbs including, wild raspberry leaves, dandelion leaves, wild hawthorn, elder, and dill. This combination has led to easy births and healthy pups.

For bitches with a history of re-sorbtion, early labor, or simply losing pups after birth (ruling out any thyroid disorder) two other homeopathic remedies should strongly be considered along with the remedies mentioned previously. Viburnam Opulis 30c and Fading Puppy Remedy. When the Fading Puppy Remedy is given during pregnancy we see not only improvement in the vigor of the pups but also the weights of the pups in the litter tend to be more even. This remedy is wonderful for prevention. I give it to pups twice daily until they are approx. 3
weeks. If there is a puppy not doing well, losing weight, or just won’t nurse, the remedy helps them fight and gets them going again. It has saved countless pups who otherwise would have been lost needlessly. (It of course can not save pups with congenital defects).

It is extremely important to help the immune system during pregnancy. When a bitch is bred, her immune function automatically down regulates in order to accept the fetus. Thus making her more susceptible to infections. I rely on NR Herbal Compounds. They have been used for decades with good success. These contain such pungent herbs as Sage, Thyme, Garlic, Wormwood, and Eucalyptus. When given to lactating bitches the herbal properties pass through the milk and helps the puppies' immune functions too. (Generally, a nice side effect seems to be worm free pups!) I give these as a routine supplement to all my dogs, 5 days a week to ensure
good health. Acute or chronic infections can be troublesome at anytime and antibiotics are frequently and easily over prescribed. Many times, (i.e. during pregnancy) an alternative to antibiotics would be preferable.

Mastitis is a good example. With nursing pups most breeders cringe at the thought of having to put the bitch on strong antibiotics. We have successfully treated mastitis without the use of antibiotics especially when the owner observes the condition at an early stage. The homeopathics we use are Bryaconeel, Traumeel, Echinacea Comp. Forte, and Mastitis remedy. These are given every hour until symptoms abate. Then, they are given 3-4 times daily until pups are weaned. Adjunct therapy would be Immuplex (glandular) and Colloidal Silver, and oligo trace element. (Note one has to be extremely careful of the quality and strength of this remedy. Stronger strength is not better and used long term could cause harm.)

There are many good and safe natural therapies that can be given to help the body fight off and heal the infection.
Each case needs to be treated individually of course, but some of my favorites are: 
Prolive (this is
made from an olive leaf extract that has scientifically been proven to kill many bacteria as well as viral and fungal strains); Immuplex (a glandular to support the thymus and spleen);  Isatis (a chinese herbal formula for infections).

The above mentioned remedies are safe to give during pregnancy and are great for those bitches that have had a history of bacterial infections (the cause of many miscarriages). A very common problem at any time that can turn into a serious chronic condition is a bladder infection. It is quite usual after a course of antibiotics, that a bladder infection returns and a stronger antibiotic must be found or a combination of them must be used. This can lead to bacteria that become resistant to antibiotics, and may leave the animal in a weakened state. I have found that using homeopathics called Solidago Comp. (a specific remedy for bladder and kidney irritations) and Echinacea Comp Forte (a comprehensive remedy to help the body fight a variety of infections, including staph. and strep. bacteria. This should not be confused with the simple herbal form of echinacea). Albaplex is also given (a glandular for bladder infections). Cran caps (a high potency cranberry concentrate) have been well studied for its effectiveness in bladder infections. The concentrate form is much more effective and certainly easier to administer to the animals. These remedies would be given in combination until the infection had cleared (i.e. 3 weeks). They truly help the body clear itself of the bacteria. If in fact you do have an animal that is prone to reoccurrence of the infection (this can be a weak point of the body’s immune function) then I have found that by continuing the Cran Caps and giving a Chinese herbal formula called Lindera helps the body’s ph levels and immune function to prevent reoccurrence of any infection.

For those that are prone to producing bladder stones or gravel, Couch Grass is a good herb to give to aid in the dissolving of calculi or gravel. In addition a Chinese herb called Lysimachia is very helpful for treatment as well as for prevention of stones. Vitamin B6 should also strongly be considered. Many studies show it has good effect in preventing stone production.

Urinary Incontinence is another common problem in spayed bitches. Unfortunately we are seeing this occur at extremely young ages. The conventional course of treatment can contribute to many side effects, especially when given on a long-term basis. There is a homeopathic remedy that was specifically formulated for this problem called Pro V Urinary Incontinence. When combined with a glandular nutritional supplement called Ovarian Complex, it gives excellent results in the majority of cases. It can be used long term if needed with complete safety. For those few cases that may not respond to these remedies I have found the homeopathic Solidago Comp. usually does the trick.

Unfortunately too many animals end up with kidney or liver failure problems. This can be the result of a variety of reasons including the overuse of drug therapies, infections and aging. Conventionally speaking there is little western medicine can do other than buy a little time with fluid therapy or drugs. Holistic medicine should certainly be considered here as we have taken countless "hopeless" cases and have turned them around so that they live
long and healthy lives until it is their normal time to go. Of course each case is individual and we determine what is needed specifically from a metabolic nutritional analysis of the bloodwork. From there a protocol of glandulars, homeopathics and herbs are given. The majority of cases though need the following:
Renatrophin and Eco Liver (Kidney and Liver support); 
and homeopathics called Hepar Comp, Solidago Comp, and Ren suis
and herbals such as Rentone for kidneys or Herbal Hepatox for liver. 
Bloodwork is continually monitored at intervals to evaluate if adjustments are needed. 
Milk Thistle is helpful for inflammation of the liver but generally, by itself, is not strong enough for more advanced conditions.

It is important to realize that base line bloodwork should be done, at least starting at middle age, as a preventative measure. Unfortunately since conventional medicine offers no treatment for degenerative liver and kidney problems, most often initial signs that show up in blood panels are passed over or ignored as not to alarm the owner. "This is part of regular aging, etc." Please, ask your vet when any bloodwork is done for copies for your own records. Then ask him how the liver and kidney functions are and compare them to previous levels. If there are any signs of deterioration, then you certainly know that you have options and can make the choice to
intervene! As usual, the earlier the diagnosis, the easier it is to

OCD, (basically a bone chip or a piece of ossified cartilage that has come loose to cause irritation and lameness) is another common condition that the only conventional course of treatment is surgery, with usually varied results of success depending on the location.
OCD has been responding with excellent results to natural therapy! 
The holistic treatment consists of the following: 
Bone Liquescence and
Traumeel ( homeopathics); 
Arth 9 (a glucosamine/herbal formula);
The Winnah (Selenium and vitamin E formula); 
and vitamin C.

When using the OCD protocol within approximately two months new x-rays will likely reveal that there is no longer the need for surgery! 

Heart conditions also respond well with holistic care, alone or as an adjunct to conventional drug treatment.
One of the basic items used is Coenzyme Q 10. This has been very well studied and shown to improve energy utilization while at the same time
strengthening the heart. It is helpful with cholesterol levels too. For breeds that are prone to heart diseases I certainly recommend this as a daily supplement for prevention.
Cardio Complex (a glandular herbal formula that contains hawthorne) and L’ Carnitine (an amino acid) are also very important to give for specific support to the cardiovascular system.

We are on the forefront of a very exciting era. The reawakening of true healing. Accepting and utilizing methods from around the world all with one goal in mind--to help the body heal itself.   Do no harm! 
This is the time to learn and discover.
We need to think for ourselves and our animals will only benefit from it!

If you would like further information on holistic care for your animals, including a sample copy of the Natural Rearing Newsletter please contact...

Marina Zacharias,
P.O.Box 1436,
Jacksonville, OR. 97530
Phone (541)899 -2080
Fax (541)899 -3414
E-mail: ambrican@cdsnet.net
WEB SITE :http://www.naturalrearing.com

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)               

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SKIN PROBLEMS  BY Marina Zacharias

Skin problems are unfortunately very common in all breeds. The skin being truly the largest organ in the body, is in fact the easiest way for the body to eliminate toxins. We have been conditioned by the medical establishment that when we see any skin abnormality, it is to be viewed as troublesome and unsightly and must be gotten rid of it as fast as possible ( i.e. the usual route of antibiotics and possible steroids). When nothing but conventional treatment is used it leads to a suppression of symptoms. But what happened to the toxins the body was trying to eliminate? The problem may appear gone, and may stay that way for a short term. When the body feels up to " housecleaning" again, the symptoms may return. Again, if suppression methods are used for treatment, you are effectively pushing back the problem deeper into the body. Soon the body will give up trying to eliminate through the skin and will choose to go through the organs instead, leading to a much more serious illness..

Holistic methods will help the body to deal with the underlying problem so that a true healing response is obtained. There are a great variety of methods used and all are aimed at helping the body help itself. There are cases when a problem warrants antibiotic treatment. Sometimes you have to put the fire out before the clean up crew can go in and do the job. When this is combined with giving the body support holistically, good results can be achieved.

I will try to touch briefly here on a few of the more common skin problems and some good remedies to treat them. In cases of serious illness veterinarian advise should always be sought.

Demodetic Mange has become quite a problem which usually afflicts the younger dog. ( However, chronic cases are becoming more frequent in the older animal.) The usual course of treatment after diagnosis is to use harsh chemical dips until all signs of the mites are gone. In severe unresponsive cases, Ivermectin is being tried on a daily basis. A problem with active mange is a compromised immune system which must be addressed. Dips only further hurt the immune system and in cases of very sick animals have actually caused death. We have been very successful in treating mange holistically. 
Topically Lavender oil is used alternately with lemon juice directly on the spots. Internally the immune system must be helped. A glandular nutritional supplement called Immuplex combined with BHI homeopathic remedies called Skin and Inflammation are used. NR Herbal Compounds are also excellent to help boost the immune system and should be used regularly for maintenance and prevention. This is a Juliette de Bairacli Levy formula that combines garlic, sage, thyme, eucalyptus, wormwood, rue and vegetable charcoal that has given excellent results over decades of usage. This is wonderful when given routinely to all dogs (and cats) as a preventative and for their overall good health. Vitamins are also important in the mange case. Supplementation of vitamins, E; C; B
and zinc should be given. Diet is of course important and as much fresh food should be given as possible. 

If the mange surfaced after a period of vaccination, then detoxifying with the homeopathic remedies Thuja and
Sulphur are good to help clear the body of the residual effects.

Dermatitis and staphylococcus infections are common problems. They can occur by themselves or as secondary infections. The same homeopathics and supplements as mentioned previously can be used, in conjunction with BHI Lymphatic. This will help rally the lymph glands into helping boost the immune system to fight infection. 
Chinese herbal complexes are excellent to use. 
Isatis 6 is a combination that will not only fight bacterial infections but also viral and fungal as well. 
Astragalus 10+ combination helps the immune system especially in chronic situations. This complex has also given good results in severely depressed immune systems. If the staph infection is persistent then a homeopathic nosode can be given to help the body build its own immunity to the bacteria. This has been quite effective. A homeopathic remedy called Cutis comp. ( Heel) has a deeper action on the skin and also can give good results.

A great substitute for antibiotics is Colloidal Silver. This forgotten remedy ( due to the high power pharmaceutical companies) has proven itself throughout history. There are almost no disease causing organisms that can live in the presence of even minute traces of chemical elemental silver. It has the ability to destroy not only bacteria, but viruses and fungi as well. However one has to be extremely careful as to the quality of the product. Many companies are promoting it as the panacea to all problems. Colloidal Silver should not be used
prophylactically on a long term basis. Be very wary of companies marketing hype that tell you otherwise.

Unfortunately in the process of healing skin conditions it is common to suffer hair loss. Reducing the amount of hair loss and aiding in speeding up the regrowth process can certainly be helped with holistic remedies. Homeopathically, BHI Hair & Skin combined with BHI Enzyme greatly help the body in triggering the proper enzymatic function for hair growth. Fresh chopped Dandelion leaves can be added to the food and the affected areas can be bathed in an infusion of Rosemary or Marigold. Providing the proper trace elements and minerals is also very important. I have relied on NR Seaweed Mineral food for the last ten years. This is a blend of deep ocean Seaweed from Europe (made from the whole plant and not just the surface growth) combined with other key herbs such as Nettles, Cleavers and Uva Ursi. When used daily it promotes strong thick coat; good pigmentation; supports bones, reproductive organs and Thyroid function. Many breeders tell me the dramatic difference they see when using this product over the current kelp products that they had been using ( many of which come from polluted N. America shores or are so highly heat processed they have lost the essential nutrients). 

Fatty Acid supplements are also important to the overall health and in particular help the skin and coat when used daily. The supplement should be high in Omega 3 fatty acids and should be in the form of cold pressed
oil. If high heat is used in the processing ( i.e. capsules, or powder forms) it will kill all the benefits of the product. The only brands of oil that I trust to be correctly labeled are: Flora; Omega Nutrition; or Seymour Organics. I prefer Flax seed oil. Please do not think that by reading this ingredient on your dog food or supplement label, that this is enough. The body needs a truly cold processed product in order to utilize it.

A very common problem in any breed is ear infections. The usual fare of antibiotic or steroidal ointments are commonly used. This may clear the problem temporarily, but quite often the ears become chronically infected. Yeast infections usually being the predominant trouble. To help this I have had good success using the Herbal Earwash to cleanse the ear as needed. Externally Traumeel liquid (Heel) is put in the ear twice daily to help decrease the itching or inflammation. Internally a Chinese herbal complex called Picrorrhiza 11 is given. This herbal combination helps the body fight yeast infections while at the same time it helps boost the immune system. As the ears improve the Traumeel would be discontinued and normal cleansing with the Herbal Earwash would be maintained. The Picrorrhiza 11 can be used long term if needed ( i.e. in a genetic problem). Many ear problems can also be related to allergies, either inhalant or food related. A wide variety of dermatological conditions may originate with allergies. Allergies are at epidemic proportions today both in animals and humans. The causes are many and the entire subject is certainly beyond the scope of this article. Each animal needs to be treated on an individual basis, to help determine the underlying cause of the sensitivity in the first place. However I can touch on a few suggestions to help get things on the right track.
Allergy symptoms can be troublesome and often show up as itchy skin. Homeopathically BHI Allergy and Skin remedies can bring on relief ( instead of using anti-histamines). If the itching is severe then Chinese herbal complexes called Zaocys and Xanthium 12 are extremely helpful in reducing irritation. A bath in Murphy’s oil soap ( made from pure vegetable oils) or an epsom salt soak can be soothing during the
healing. If the skin is "hot" to the touch or red and irritated then a supplement called Beta Thym would be used. This supplement contains Thymus, L-ornithine and Beta Sitosterol ( a plant derivative of cortisol) which greatly helps to reduce the inflammation in the body naturally, while also helping to boost the immune system. Often, in chronic allergies or when there has been a history of drug use, the body’s adrenal function is stressed and thus compromised. By
giving a glandular nutritional supplement called Adrenal Complex this helps the body pick up the nutrients it needs to heal. Any allergy is a sign of a weakened immune system which needs to be supported. This can be helped with the supplements mentioned for mange. Additionally Pycnogenol is excellent in helping to reduce histamine production while increasing the bioavailability of vitamin C. Pycnogenol is made from Pine Bark and has been a long favored anti-oxidant in Europe. Again one must be very careful as to the source of supply as most companies have only 30 % bioavailability to the body. A good supplement should have 90% + bioavailability. 
( This is wonderful for us humans too!) I use Pycnogenol from Da Vinci Labs.

If you know what your dog is allergic to ( which can be tested for), a desensitization program can be utilized. In place of using serum injections of the antigens, homeopathy can be used with excellent results. The antigens are made into homeopathic remedies called allersodes and are given to the patient orally. These help to create the correct immune response to achieve desensitization without any risks of side effects or overdosing which can occur with the injections ( less costly too! ) This has proven very successful in flea allergies. For flea desensitization we use a product called Biting Insect Mix. 

Hot spots can occur from a variety of problems and can be treated in several different ways. I prefer using a homeopathic ointment called Traumeel externally on the spots. Often, when caught early this is enough to dry up the spot. Or this can be used in alternation with colloidal silver. Orally BHI Skin, Inflammation, and Traumeel work well to promote healing and stop the progression of any further outbreaks.

These same formulas work well for interdigital cysts too. If these problems are reoccurring then again the immune system needs help. Generally, NR Herbal Compounds and / or Immuplex provide the needed support.

In cases of eczema or dandruff type conditions where the animal has been given the proper Omega 3 fatty acids and vitamin E but the trouble still persists, this can be indicative of liver congestion. The liver is the toxic eliminator for the body. Through aging; overuse of drugs; poor nutrition, etc. the liver becomes less efficient at waste removal. Nutrients that are needed by the blood supply to nourish the skin become "backed up" and can not be utilized. To help this a Chinese herbal combination called Tang Kuei 18 is given. This aids in nourishing the blood supply and alleviating congestion, while giving aid to the liver function. The skin then has a chance to heal.

In any skin condition it is common to find that the liver function is stressed. Most dogs today need liver support just simply due to environment; processed food; heartworm preventatives, etc. To give good ongoing support to the liver a glandular called Livaplex can be given routinely. This is extremely important and can give an amazing relief of symptoms when combined with Immuplex. Seniors, in particular, can benefit from this supplement. 
Milk Thistle and Dandelion also aid in supporting the liver.

A bloodwork analysis called a Metabolic Nutritional Analysis is extremely useful for all animals. This allows us to determine where the animal may be out of balance regarding endocrine function and then what specific nutritional support is needed to help the body regain a functional balance to heal itself. This can be done preventatively before physical symptoms are apparent and of course it is most important during illness. 
This has truly saved the lives of many "hopeless" and "untreatable" cases, that were given up on by conventional treatments.
Used alone or in conjunction with conventional therapies results are outstanding.

As more and more prestigious Universities are adding courses in natural medicine to their curriculum, it would appear that access to a greater variety of health care is a growing demand. There is a great deal of new science behind holistic treatments that is being brought to the forefront daily. Modern technology is providing the tools to help us understand that there are effective methods of dealing with health problems other than poisoning, cutting or burning.

We can all benefit as long as we continue to be open to learning.

If you would like further information on holistic care for your animals,
including a FREE sample copy of the Natural Rearing Newsletter please contact

Marina Zacharias,
P.O.Box 1436,
Jacksonville, OR. 97530
Phone (541) 899-2080
Fax (541) 899-3414
E-mail ambrican@cdsnet.net
WEB SITE: http://www.naturalrearing.com

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)                       

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JUDGING by Ray Kemp

This article is not intended as a 'bible' for judging, but rather as a primer so that when one is at ringside one can follow what the judge is looking for. It is derived from several sources USA, UK and Germany. There is a very good illustrated article on the Great Dane Club web site, written I believe by Jill Swedlow, and illustrated by Mr. Hubble . 

What are they looking for?
We have all heard about judges who "only judge for Fawns, Harle's, Big
Digs, Heads, Teeth etc., but the truth is that no good judge would remain unless he follows the Standards against which to judge.
Well follow me if you will from the first line up through the gaiting, and
this is the sequence that is occurring. 

The Body - From the top of the back to bottom of chest should equal length of front legs, and those
measurements added should be same as horizontal
length of body from chest to butt i.e. a square. 

Head - muzzle should be the same length as skull. 

Eyes - should be almond shaped, well developed eyebrows, and with tight lids, and dark. 

Ears - are set high on the head. If uncropped the fold should be at the top of the head line. If cropped both ears should stand uniformly. 

Nose - must not be split i.e. seeming to have two separate nostrils. It should be black unless a harle which may have a spotted nose. Pink is a fault . 

Teeth and jaw - Having a level bite , not over or under. Crowded bottom teeth is a minor fault, but one doesn't have to count the teeth as in some other breeds. 

Hindquarters - They should be viewed from the rear to ensure that the hocks are not turned out or in, round feet well arched toes and tight. Legs should show well marked muscle. 

Tail - should hang without offset to either side, and come down to level of the hock. It should be curved, and when gaiting the tip should not rise above the back. Viewed from the side, the front quarters should balance the rear. 

Coat should be short, thick and smooth and glossy. A gray muzzle is not a fault .  

Color - No one Dane color should be considered over another - each color should conform and be judged according to its own standard. 

Rich golden. Faults include too pale, washed out, sooty, or grayish yellow, with a black mask extending up to the eyes. A black shading on the tail is not a fault.

The Black stripes should be dark and well defined and even over the whole body and should tend to join at the top line.

Deep rich steel blue. a blue with yellow tinges is a fault


Is a white dog with black patches ( not spots) that have a "torn edge" appearance. White chest and neck is preferred but black patches on the neck is acceptable.

Top Line - This should be judged when the dog is being gaited (running). It should appear level and horizontal to the ground. 

Gaiting - When the dog is gaiting ( running) the stride should be long and flowing, with no rolling or pitching of the body. The front leg should hit the ground just below the nose while the head is carried forward and also parallel to the ground ( not pointing down or up or to either side.) Some countries will disqualify a dog if the handler is
obviously holding the dogs head UP or in other ways influencing the dogs natural gait. The rear leg should not hit the ground forward of the front leg placement, and there should be no twisting of the rear legs at the hock or front legs at the elbow while gaiting The general appearance should show Power , strength and a fluid forward motion The tail should extend like a scimitar ( curved) with the tail tip being out but not curving above the dog's top line.

Behavior - The dog should be alert, and not nervous . It should allow the judge to run his hands over the anatomy without flinching. A dog that responds to handling by sitting down can be disqualified. Sitting down can be disqualified. While it is preferred that a dog stand still while being checked by a judge, a dog that turns his head to see what is happening is acceptable, but not moving his feet off the set he has been placed in, ( called "breaking"). Next time you are at a show, take this along with you, so that you can start to see the niceties of the contestants.

Raymond Kemp

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)               

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SHOCK by Dana Perry

1. What is Shock?
Shock is an acute and progressive failure of the peripheral circulation.
(blood circulation to the outer body parts- legs, etc.)  

2. Signs of shock may include 1 or all listed below:
A. Rapid Shallow Pulse
B. Rapid Breathing
C. Excessive Panting
D. Gums may be pale white.
E. Dog may be uncoordinated
F. Low or falling Blood Pressure.
G. Cool Skin
H. Cold Extremities
I. Eyes may be dilated
J. Slow Capillary Refill time. (If it takes longer than 3 seconds your
in real trouble.)
K. Dog may pace or become nervous or agitated.
L. Mouth may be dry.

3. Cause's of shock may be from anything that affects the peripheral circulatory systems:
 * * Generally follows all major injuries including severe trauma. * *

A. Massive hemorrhage.
B. Anemia
C. Major infections
D. Internal Obstructions/Bloat
E. Dehydration
F. Anaphylaxis (severe allergic reaction)
G. Cardiac Failure

4. What happens with shock?
Whether caused by severe blood loss, tissue toxins, or fluid loss from
the vascular system into the tissues, the peripheral circulatory system begins to fail.

In the MILD form of shock, the dogs body can compensate automatically by constricting the dilated vessels in the peripheral system. This in turn gives the heart sufficient back pressure to work against. Which is required to maintain circulation to all the major organs. When the trauma or damage is severe the body is unable to maintain the blood pressure. Low blood pressure deprives the heart, and the nerves that stimulate constriction of blood vessels. Thus allowing the blood vessels to dilate, lowering the blood pressure even more. Basically this reduces the blood flow and the body's ability to maintain it's major systems. When there is improper circulation of the blood this results in damage to the kidneys and liver.



5. Treatment of Shock- Primary treatment should be administered by your veterinarian- it  involves massive replacement of fluids to restore blood pressure. Blood and/or Plasma may be used depending on the requirements of the collapsing systems. Your vet will treat as needed with pain relievers and sometimes antibiotics. This should only be done by your vet.

     What can you do to help your dog?

A. Don't waste time, you don't have it. GET TO YOUR VET.
B. Control any bleeding if the dog has an injury.
C. For transport lay your dog flat on it's side and lower the dogs head slightly.
D. Providing the dog is NOT running a high fever keep the dog warm and quiet.* If the temperature is raised, the
    blood vessels will dilate, in turn lowering the blood pressure even more.* 
E. If you are like me and an hour plus away from a vet. Talk to your vet get instructions from him/her on how to stabilize your dog with the use of IV fluids. Most vets that deal with giant breeds are generally very willing to teach you the proper use and techniques. They know this gives them a better chance upon your arrival with your dog. When taught and administered properly your dog is generally stable enough to go right into surgery if necessary.

Shock treatment should be closely monitored, because dogs that are responding well to treatments can quickly relapse and become critical again.


1. Normal body temp = 101.0 to 102.5

2. Pulse Rate 80 to 120 beats per minute (RESTING)

3. Breaths - 10 to 30 per minute

4. Capillary refill - this is checked on the gums. Find a pink spot on the gum, press with your finger, it should go from white to pink immediately when your finger is removed. 


(Disclaimer- This information is to educate you on what shock is. Not meant for medical advice please consult your veterinarian.)


~ ~ ~What a Good Quality Web Site Should Contain.~ ~ ~

The first page of your website is your store front. The "content" available here to your viewers, should be a brief but full description of your business. It should be presented in such a manner to have "eye" appeal. You want them to bookmark your site, this guarantee’s many return visit’s from them. The viewer should be able to navigate anywhere they want to within your store from the first page. 


Beautiful and very functional web sites.
Reasonable Rates.
Professionally designed, specializing in animal related sites.
But we do it all. Specials currently running... Earn free pages !

Dana Perry - Legends Great Danes
Black Dane Web Creation's

Phone: (503) 556-8765
Email: stevep@blkdane.com
Website http://www.blkdane.com/legends/index.html

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)               

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~ ~ ~ ~ Stress and it’s Symptoms ~ ~ ~ ~

Although these are just a small amount of signs that you might encounter from a a dog suffering from stress, these appear to be the easiest to recognize as long as you know your dog and it’s personality. 
Anything out of the ordinary for your dog(s) could be the indication of stress or illness.

1. Abnormal panting (mouth open wide) rapid breathing. 
2. Shedding
3. A dog that seeks close company, clinging.
4. Velvet tongue (has the appearance of being fuzzy and dry, not smooth and wet).
5. Nervous lip-licking
6. Apprehensive, starting to show anxiety.
7. Barking and or Whining wildly.
8. A quiet dog that becomes Hyperactive for no reason.
9. Stress tremors.
10. Body parts in conflict, front of body pointing east, rear pointing north or south.
11. Very tense body.
12. Soft stool or diarrhea
13. Fearful urination, emptying of the anal glands.
14. The dog begins pretending that you are not there.
15. Withdrawal from environment.
16. A typical friendly dog turning aggressive.
17. Whites of the eye are visible sometimes called "Horses Eye"
18. Sweating pads.
19. Dilated pupils.
20. Facial veins highly visible especially under the eyes.

It is in the BEST interest of your dog, to know his or her limitations and remove them from a situation before a positive experience turns bad.

~ ~ ~ ~ Heat Stroke ~ ~ ~ ~

Hyp er thermia- is a state of abnormally high body temperature. High environmental temperature and or
overexertion can cause hyperthermia, which results in exhaustion. If severe, heat exhaustion becomes heat
Hyperthermia is considered under shock because it will result in shock and death if left

The following are the most susceptible to heat stroke or exhaustion:

1. The aged dog.
2. The under-conditioned dog (i.e. overweight)
3. The young
4. Chronically ill.
But all dogs can fall victim to the heat.

Some of the common signs or symptoms of hyperthermia:

1. Heavy Panting – tongue appears WIDER
2. Dog’s temperature is 106 degrees or higher.
3. Seizures
4. The lack of urine production.
5. Rapid Breathing
6. Weakness and or collapse

Treatment: The most important treatment for heatstroke or heat exhaustion is rapid cooling of the dog’s body. Immerse the dog’s body in cool water or if the dog is too large use soaked cold towels. The dogs temperature must be monitored closely (rule of thumb every 2 minutes) stop the cooling process when the dog’s temperature has dropped to 104 degrees. It is important to stop prior to the dog’s temperature returning to normal, as the temperature will continue to drop. Start the cooling process while enroute to your veterinarian. When you arrive at the veterinarian’s office they can administer fluids and begin treatment for shock.

After a dog has suffered from heat exhaustion or stroke it may take as long as ten days for the recovery process to be complete. What most people don’t realize that once a dog has suffered from this condition it will become MORE susceptible to hot temperatures.

It is always best in high temperatures to keep your dog at home in the air conditioning or at least have fans on to keep the air circulating. 

But when you must travel with your canine companion it’s a good idea to travel with and offer your dog children’s Pedialyte. It will help replace the electrolytes the body loses when the outside temperatures rise. There are animal electrolytes available that patrol officers and search & rescue units use for their canines on a regular basis as their dogs are subject to extreme weather conditions. The one I use is K-9 Bluelite. It provides vitamins, minerals and electrolytes for rapid rehydration.

Dog’s suffer from heat exhaustion rapidly and you cannot always tell when their lives are in jeopardy because they don’t sweat, they pant for cooling. Please learn the difference between normal panting and extreme
and rapid breathing for each of your dogs. Someday it may save their life. 

(Disclaimer- This information is to educate you on what heat stroke and
stress is. Not meant for medical advice please consult your veterinarian.)


~ ~ ~What a Good Quality Web Site Should Contain.~ ~ ~

The first page of your website is your store front. The "content" available here to your viewers, should be a brief but full description of your business. It should be presented in such a manner to have "eye" appeal. You want them to bookmark your site, this guarantee’s many return visit’s from them. The viewer should be able to navigate anywhere they want to within your store from the first page. 


Beautiful and very functional web sites.
Reasonable Rates.
Professionally designed, specializing in animal related sites.
But we do it all. Specials currently running... Earn free pages !

Dana Perry - Legends Great Danes
Black Dane Web Creation's
Phone: (503) 556-8765
Email: stevep@blkdane.com
Website http://www.blkdane.com/legends/index.html 

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)               

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BLOAT by Ruby Ricciardi

What causes Bloat ? (In My Opinion and Experience)                                                            
    Grain based dog foods (dogs are carnivores)
    Lack of probiotics and digestive enzymes
    Feeding too much of the food per meal
    Stress !
    Vaccine, drug, anesthesia re-actions

While bloat may be a mystery....there is no reason to not be prepared.

Buy Phayzme Extra-Strength GEL CAPS 165mg... (red formula) 60 softgels, available at most drug stores.
Buy pure Simethicone by Mail Order from STAN at Your Druggist Pharmacy in Florida
954- 753-2090   Credit Cards accepted  954- 341-9315 fax

1oz = 30cc. = $ 12 + $ 7 ship, handling
2oz= 60cc. = $ 20 ''
4oz= 120cc. = $ 38 ''

1cc. = 1000mg
1.5cc. = 1650mg = 10 Phayzme

If you even * * think * * your Dane/dog is in bloat....give 10 gelcaps = 1650mg simethicone.
give 1.5cc. simethicone

If you say to yourself...I wonder if he/she is bloating, do not hesitate.... give Phayzme. TIME is crucial.

If the Dane throws it up....repeat the above dose.

.....then put 4 drops of Rescue Remedy on tongue to calm the Dane/dog.

If the Dane/dog has not gotten very comfortable in....5 minutes.....REPEAT DOSE. Call Vet !
.....repeat Rescue Remedy.

If this dose is given at the very start of a bloat, it can/may STOP it.

If given in the middle or end stage.....it can at the very least buy your Vet some time to save your Dane/dog.

Also......As soon as you see symptoms......
You can give 1/2 tube of FASTRACK Canine GEL then another 1/2 tube - while enroute to the vet.
This is to make sure that the GOOD bacteria is replaced fast.
Buy FASTRACK Canine Gel at Nature's Farmacy 800-733-4981

Make sure you tell Vet what you gave.

Simethicone or Phayzme cannot be over-dosed, is not affected by heat (can be kept in glove box),
doesn't go out of date, can do no harm, is not a drug, does not leave residue in the body, is small enough
to be carried in a pocket or purse.
..........you can buy ORAL syringes.......and pre-fill them ahead of time - empty 10 Phayzmes or 1.5cc.
into each syringe...add 2cc. of water...tilt to mix.
These travel well too. Use a hard eyeglass case for your purse...and another for the glove box.
It's just the right size.

.....oral syringes can be bought from Drs. Foster/Smith - 1-800-826-7206  item # 9A-2510 40 ea.

Don't squirt into back of throat.....squirt into the back of the lower lip area. Tilt head back.

From my experience of having a Dane who bloated weekly, Phayzme or simethicone is a necessity.

My Dane no longer bloats due to her diet having been " signifigantly " improved......but i still keep Phayzme
(simethicone) on hand, in purse, in van, at all times !

AND....it is always a good idea to have a Bloat Tubing Kit, and know how to use it.
.....also from Nature Farmacy 800-733-4981

FIRST:    and foremost, KNOW the symptoms of bloat !
SECOND:   Bloat comes up instantaneously.   There is NO WARNING.
THIRD:    Bloat is excruciatingly PAINFUL.
FOURTH:  When bloating, your Dane/dog is TERRIFIED.



= = = AFTERCARE = = =
Phayzme / Simethicone:
If you should experience a bloat incident.....please, do not hesitate to add 3 Phayzme (164mg x 3 = 500mg)
.....or 1/2cc. to EACH meal for a few weeks afterwards.

Fastrack Gel:
Give 4cc. PER MEAL. This is to maintain and keep the GOOD bacteria flourishing.

If at all possible, avoid commercial foods.

If the bloat took place shortly after a meal, your dog may be afraid to eat. This is going to mean that in order
to stop that fear, you may have to hand feed.......literally. Just make sure you give Phayzme so that it won't happen again. Dogs have remarkable memories, good and bad.

Repeated Episodes:
Unfortunately, if a dog bloats once, most likely it will again....unless Feeding Management changes.

Gastropexy / Stomach Tack:
Yes....the sooner the better on a dog that has bloated. The peace of mind is priceless. However, it will only
prevent death from occuring due to the stomach twisting. It will not prevent bloating. Only improving the diet
and supplementation of the diet can prevent bloat... IMO. 
Many dogs who then are fed raw meat, stop bloating.

===== Anticipated Questions ======

Question: Can you use the Phayzme liquid or baby drops ?
...NO. Bear in mind the mg. strength - you want 1600mg +

Question: Aren't you are afraid to give so many?
..... No ! From my experiences using Phayzme during so
many bloats ( I started giving just 2) I found that dogs stomachs are so tight that 2 did little, as I increased, I
got better results. 10, if you KNOW it is just at the very start...gives excellent relief...fast.

Question: What about Gas X and other brands ?
.....I tried them all and only suggest 10 Phayzme. Or pure simethicone.... in which 1cc. = 1000mg.

Question: What about the tablets ?
....NO ! They have been found undissolved during bloat surgeries/autopsies. TIME is of the essence when bloating...the more concentrated the remedy, the faster it will work.

Question: What scientific references do you have for this? None. And if that might stop you from buying Phayzme... I beg you, for your dog's sake, buy it anyway. It is of the utmost importance to get rid of the gas ASAP....this is a tool that can help you save your beloved pet.

Question: May you cross-post this?
.....YES ! Please do.

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)               

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VACCINOSIS From: Pamela Moore <pmoore@GIA.EDU>

I've heard several sources who have said it takes several generations to clean up the lines. A couple of speakers at a recent healthy dog seminar here in San Diego-- There were several speakers and I'm afraid their talks all kind of ran together in my brain, but the main speakers on immunity were Dr. Steven Blake of San Diego (I believe
his specialty is the immune system) and Pat McKay (who formulated a commercial raw diet and authored "Natural Immunity"). There is also Sandra Brigola (not at the seminar), a Canadian Dane breeder who used to
be on this list, who has done one heck of a lot of research on the subject, as well as observing the trends in her own natural breeding program. The figure that sticks in my head is about 7 generations of non-vaccinating to get the lines "clear."

Since there are a number of people following this thread who are just embarking on this delightful journey into the world of vaccine research, I'll go into some detail.

There was a lot of talk at that seminar about how vaccines change inside the animal. That is, the distemper virus may be what's injected, but it can change form within the dog (particularly the modified live vaccines), and create or affect other disorders (such as HOD by lodging in the bones). Also, a vaccinated bitch develops antibodies to a
vaccine, but does not necessarily pass those antibodies to her pups-- she may pass some sensitivities (I wasn't real clear on exactly how this works) to the pups through the placenta and the colostrum in the first milk, but she never developed any of her own "natural" immunity to disease, so the sensitivities she does pass to the pups are not effective against the intended disease. (If they were, we would not need to keep vaccinating successive generations of dogs.) Natural immunity, however, does pass from dam to pups via the placenta, then the
colostrum, and is effective against disease until I believe the pups are around 8 weeks of age, then they begin to develop their own immunities.

Natural immunity is what the animal develops when it's exposed to small amounts of a pathogen under normal circumstances, such as social contact or a walk through a park where infected or recently vaccinated dogs have
been, and the body successfully fights off the intruder (either with or without developing the full-blown disease). A healthy dog's system has many tools available to fight foreign invaders-- from the mucous in its nose to special killer cells and cells that eat foreign bodies. Healthy dogs are fighting cooties of many varieties every day, everywhere. Where the vaccines cause trouble is in bypassing those first line-of-defense systems and going straight into the bloodstream with a very large amount of pathogen, often multiple (combination) pathogens, assorted other agents of questionable nature, as well as the stress of a trip to the vet or the stress of a rescue situation or combination with spaying or neutering and the anesthesia. That's a whole lot to ask of an immune
system! Especially a pup's immature system, and a system further burdened by modern-day toxins (fabric softener, room deodorizer, pollution) and commercial dog foods produced by an entirely unregulated and profit-driven pet food industry that allows a horrifying array of not only nutritionally feeble but frequently toxic ingredients to be widely advertised and grossly mal-researched and sold as "complete and balanced dog foods." (Oops, sorry about the soapbox there.) But speaking in terms of evolution, dogs have only been eating kibble and canned foods for less than 100 years-- way too short for them to have adapted physiologically to a grain-based, cooked diet from their native raw hunting and scavenging diet. (For example, a high grain diet puts added stress on the dog's pancreas--which was designed for digesting proteins and fats, not vegetable matter-- the pancreas may quit working after awhile, causing diabetes.)

Oops, what was the original question? Haha, I get so caught up on all this! Oh yes, what research is there on how the vaccines pass from one generation to the next, and how long it takes to breed out the effects of vaccines. I'll see if I can find some websites-- the research is often anecdotal, as none of the pharmaceutical companies really want to put money into researching something that will likely damage the almighty profit. 

There is currently a vaccine study going on at Purdue on a colony of beagles. There is research being compiled by the Canine Health Concern in the UK on vaccines, side effects, and subsequent disease following vaccination (Sandra Brigola has survey forms if anyone would like to participate). As an example of how these vaccines are deemed "safe," most vets only recognize a negative reaction to a vaccine if it occurs within a day or two of the shot. Basically, if your dog doesn't drop dead in the car on the way home, the pharmaceutical company can say it's safe. One only has to look at how many pups begin a decline in health after their vaccines begin-- a bald spot develops on the butt, the site of the shot won't heal, the dog becomes hyper and can't concentrate on its training, it gets diarrhea, acne, itchy shoulders, allergies, it becomes aggressive. If you take the dog back to the vet and say it got acne from the vaccine, that simply doesn't register in most vets' eyes as an immune response to the vaccines. Yet the vaccines are DESIGNED to stimulate immune response. Unfortunately, when the natural barriers to disease are bypassed, and the system is overwhelmed by a 6 combination vaccine, it may well overreact and essentially freak out and attack everything in sight, including itself. Autoimmune and degenerative
diseases-- allergies, inflammatory bowel disease, epilepsy, diabetes, arthritis, and others-- can be the result of an immune system gone wild.

If you can find an old vet who was around before commercial foods became popular and before widespread vaccination, they will tell you they rarely had to deal with such rampant numbers of degenerative and
autoimmune diseases in their early days of practice.

Plus... the vaccines are not guaranteed to be effective in preventing disease. There are plenty of cases of distemper and parvo in fully vaccinated dogs. How many of your dogs developed kennel cough right after their nose drops? Just the fact that the states can't agree on how frequently to vaccinate for rabies, and the 1-yr and 3-yr vaccines are the same, and there's no dose adjustment for different sized dogs should tell us that our vaccine practices are not backed by an exact (or maybe ethical is a better word?) science.

One vet in Florida, Dr. Fudens, did research on why the rabies vaccine was mandated in his county. He found that the rabies cases had not been increasing before the mandate, and in fact, there had not been a case of
dog rabies in his county in years. The cases were in wildlife. Furthermore, even *without* the rabies treatments, unvaccinated people who are bitten by a rabid animal have something like a 75% chance of not even developing rabies. So he was looking at a county with no dog rabies cases, and a low probability that a bite victim would even develop the disease. Did they REALLY need a rabies vaccine law? He found that a group of vets had managed to get a law passed, and the reason was to draw dogs into their clinics on a regular basis. Additionally, many believe that the rabies vaccine produces lifetime immunity with only one administration. Uh-huh, and we're supposed to dose these poor dogs every freaking year in some states? Dr Fudens is the first vet in the US to fight the rabies law and win in court. Of course, the guy had to give up his allopathic practice to do so. Interesting that the man could be judged to have researched and proved his case, yet was either forced or compelled to close his traditional practice. (He successfully practices homeopathy now.) Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

There are also some books about the vaccine controversy. Catherine O'Driscoll wrote "Who Killed the Darling Buds of May"--what the vets won't tell you about vaccines," and a second book on the subject, I think it's just called "What the vets won't tell you about vaccines." There's a vet in Los Angeles, Dr. Jean Dodds, who has a clinic and a lab that are devoted to doing vaccine titer tests and other tests (thyroid, for example), and will send test kits by mail. Another book, I'm not sure if this is human or dog-related, is "Emerging Viruses" by Dr. (Theodore?) Horowitz. I believe this book deals with things like ebola and germ warfare, but I can't swear to it. I've just heard it's quite an enthralling read. 

Well, on a personal level, I certainly understand how frightening it is to abandon the idea of giving vaccines to protect our babies. But at this point in my life, I'd rather do all I can to support the dogs' own immune abilities and take the chance on disease rather than subjecting their immune systems to the assault that nearly killed my first Dane. For those who can't quite take that risk, there are the homeopathic "nosodes," or there is simply a different way of administering vaccines. Wait til the pups are older. Do only one vaccine at a time-- avoid 4-in-one, 7-in-one, etc.-- and space the vaccines apart. Don't combine vaccination with operations like ear cropping, or other life stresses like heat in females or teething in pups. Don't vaccinate a sick dog.

You may want to pick and choose which vaccines you use. Perhaps only parvo and distemper and rabies-- skip the stuff that isn't normally fatal, like bordatella. Find out how effective the vaccines really are-- lepto apparently has a zillion strains, but the vaccine covers something like 4. And don't automatically buy into the annual vaccine
schedule-- many vaccines are good for far longer than one year. Titer tests can measure antibodies to some degree, and are a guide that may help you decide whether or not to give boosters. However, just because there are antibodies in your dog, it may not mean he can fight the disease-- titers aren't the be-all end-all test. Plus they can be expensive.

There are most definitely people out there raising their dogs without vaccines of any sort. Remember, this is a very new practice in medicine. Epidemics in the wild tend to run their course naturally, or they are self-limiting like rabies because they kill their hosts before the disease can spread very far. I don't discount the seriousness of a case of parvo or distemper, but what I've done is weigh the risks of known and suspected harmful effects from vaccinating against the probability and risk of getting diseases. Dr. Dodds has said that Danes are one of the most vulnerable dogs to vaccine damage, and she recommends they NOT be vaccinated. I'll venture that more Dane owners have troubles with vaccine-related conditions than the actual diseases they're designed to prevent. It's just that most of us don't realize just how pervasive vaccine damage IS in the Dane community-- a case of parvo in your local Dane club raises more eyebrows than half a dozen weird things like acne or hawed eyes. Vaccine damage is all around us-- it's just sneaky in the way it manifests itself differently in individual animals, and apparently not at all in others.

(Normal disclaimers apply. List owner not held responsible...blah...blah...blah.
       Information is offered in the spirit of sharing-not as medical advice.)               

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